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The first domesticated grapes were grown in all probability in Asia Minor
along the southern coast of the Black sea between 6000 and 4000 BCE.
The vine was indigenous here and in a long eastward sweep of territory to
the Iranian highlands. Maybe chance gave us the first wine, fermented by
the sun in a pot in which some grapes had been forgotten.In addition to being a pleasant drink, wine has medical and antiseptic qualities.
It has been used against infection in regions where the water supply was suspect
(most places before the late 19 century). Food was washed with wine or vinegar
before preparing or serving and mixtures of wine, oil and herbs were used to preserve it.
Traces of these usages have been found at Pompeï.In the Middle Ages, cooking with wine began in earnest due to the cultivation of the vine in the northern regions such as Lille, Caen, Beauvais, and Rennes all of which earned a reputation for their wines (the cookery books of the time and the “Viandier” of Taillevent features marinades and stews with wine). But these wines remained relatively poor, and rich sweet Malmsey wines from Cyprus, Lebanon, Crete and Liguria were procured for use in the kitchen.
The french also enjoyed the Hypocras, a spiced gold coloured wine sweetened with sugar and honey, reputedly invented by Hippocrates. The traditions of Hippocrates persisted and wine was classed as a food.
Aledebrandin of Sienna, chronicler of his time and doctor, wrote, “the use of wine according to the customs of the country and the seasons and in all its forms, including its use in cookery, promotes good blood, good colour and good odours. It accentuates all bodily virtues and makes a man happy, debonair and witty”.
“Confitures”, were made from vegetables cooked in wine must, cousins of today’s Italian Mostarda and verjuice, still popuar today (Chicken in verjuice).
The fist recipe for a capon in red wine appears about 1230. The chicken pieces were served in the reduced cooking juices and a sauce, flavoured with spices and thickened with liver, the crushed breast meat and powdered almonds. This dish presents the flavour and texture of the meat contrasted with a powerful sauce.
Today wine, when used in cooking, should complement the food. It should never dominate a dish but rather enhance its taste and contribute to the balance of the meal. The best red wines are needed to complement the pure taste of good roast beef or lamb.
When served with a wine sauce, meats dishes benefit from the company of simple, robust wines (from the Syrah grape) particulary when the wine used for the sauce is also to be used for the marinade.
Marinating is one of the most important uses of wine in cooking. The wine imparts its tannic flavours to the meat improving its taste and tenderizing it due to the acids in the wine must which, in some cases, can convert it to vinegar.
Wines used in the kitchen should always be of good quality but simple. Reducing wine concentrates its flavours but can also bring out the negative qualities of poor wine, often spoiling the dish.
Regional dishes with delicate, creamy sauces should be accompanied by a white wine from the same region. Sauces incorporating garlic, onions, juniper or other powerful flavours call for robust red wines that preserve the taste of the grape.
Wines to be drunk with the main course should be chosen with regard to the quality and type of the meat. Before starting to cook, one should try to imagine the final taste of the dish taking into account the marinade, stuffing, sauce, and the accompaniments to be served. There are usually several choices of wine available to drink with a dish. The choice should add a harmonious finishing touch to the meal. A coq au vin, for example, could be served with either a Riesling or a Burgundy.
Finally, there are some desserts which refuse the company of a wine. Goosberries, pineapple, citrus fruits and bananas do not benefit from a wine. In general, it is safer to serve all fruits with a fortified wine such as a Banyuls, a Pineau or a Port.
